The insistence of the British on national culture and even stubbornness determined that the luxury brand Burberry will never give up its brand genes. The arrival of Italian designer Riccardo Tisci seems to be unable to Newchic Coupon make a fuss about this.
Riccardo Tisci's highly anticipated Burberry debut was held in London yesterday. The 2018 September collection was inspired by the brand's 162-year history archive, focusing on the tribute to the Burberry heritage. Surprisingly, the new series is not as street-like as expected. The series release is divided into three parts, Redefined, Relaxed, and Evening.
Opening with a redefinition, the new Burberry has released a large number of classic feminine styles such as silk shirts, leather skirts, dresses, pointed high heels, etc., while continuing the brand's consistent khaki tone and signature trench coat style. One of the wide-waisted windbreakers with a prominent waistline became the latest representative work of Riccardo Tisci. In addition, Riccardo Tisci injects a variety of animal lines, including leopard prints, zebra prints, and even the ingenious sika deer pattern into Burberry's design language. The brand's classic plaid is transformed into vertical stripes, reinforcing the brand identity while creating freshness.
Next, the fashions presented in the series began to become more slack, with casual fashion items such as printed sweaters and stitched shirts. But unlike the street trends that people talk about today, Riccardo Tisci incorporates more punk elements, including various cutouts and asymmetrical cuts. One of the deer jackets is printed with the British rock band Sex Pistols lyrics "Why are they killing? Dead deer bambi?". The men's printed print stitching shirt and zip windbreaker also respond to the theme of Relaxed. The finishing evening dress is short and succinct. It is easy to see that Riccardo Tisci, who was good at evening dress design, is opening up a new category for Burberry, which is not very good at evening wear.
It is worth noting that Riccardo Tisci kept the trend of the trend in a very restrained proportion in the new series. In an interview after the show, he said that the new Burberry "for both parents and the younger generation", the core is still interpreting the "mix of British lifestyle."
Whether it is the English countryside represented by the cow print, the model uses a chain to slash the umbrella behind it, the Shakespeare quote printed on the clothes, the British band Massive Attack on the show, or the punk culture, the new Burberry brought by Riccardo Tisci. Emphasizes the brand's British heritage. Vanessa Friedman, fashion director of The New York Times, rated the collection "the 50th ash of the British bourgeoisie."
Riccardo Tisci also admitted in an interview after the show that “everyone is talking about street trends, and street trends are indeed one of the most important trends, but people have forgotten the exquisite tailoring of Savile Row in the UK.”
In fact, Riccardo Tisci has clearly conveyed its intention to return to the classics and revive the Burberry fashion house through the 2019 early spring series “B Classic” advertising album. In this new series named “Classic”, Representative elements such as lines, windbreakers, and cloaks continue to appear, with only a slight adjustment in the width of the plaid.
The punk elements in the September 2018 series also have early signs. Just two months after the release of the "B Classic" series, Riccardo Tisci announced that it will work with British designer Vivienne Westwood. It is reported that Vivienne Westwood will reshape her legendary classic design in this cooperation, and the series is expected to be officially launched in December. Riccardo Tisci said on his Instagram, “Vivienne Westwood is one of the designers who influenced his way to design, and her bold and rebellious punk shape created a unique British fashion style.”
But for the safety card that Riccardo Tisci played, the comments after the show were mixed.
Well-known fashion commentators, including Vanessa Friedman, have expressed a neutral view, Vanessa Friedman criticized. “Riccardo Tisci's new collection doesn't bring unexpected, impactful clothes that make you sit in the seat. The clothes that give you shock and joy. Although the GeekBuying Coupons brand needs to continue the legacy, it is a bad start to playing a safety card. The details of the brand adjustment are only the change of the check and the bold logo. Big bets, maybe this is understandable. But under the suppression of street culture today, people can't help but eagerly await the arrival of a real storm.
It is worth noting that this big show did not invite stars, or intended to make people pay more attention to the new series itself. Some analysts believe that the men's wear is better than the women's wear, and the handbags are too small in the whole show. The main style is only the Belt Bag, which adds to the shortcomings that Burberry can make up for the lack of core handbags. Uncertainty, especially in the Chinese market, is currently one of the most expensive luxury brands in China.
In the past two months, Riccardo Tisci's Burberry show and Hedi Slimane's upcoming new Celine debut show will be the most important industry events of the season, which has drawn close attention from the industry. One has made the Givenchy Gothic image deeply rooted in the hearts of the people, and one has subverted Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent in a distinct personal style. Two star creative directors with rich experience and deep understanding of the fashion industry are standing at the same time. At the beginning of the new cycle, a new round of contests will be launched.
The competition for public attention has begun before the show. Burberry and Celine have changed their brand logos. Although the latter moves late, Hedi Slimane has successfully incited consumer sentiment and gained great results through Lady Gaga's subversive measures such as exposing the first handbag and emptying the brand's social media history. attention.
Burberry's series of innovations are more like the planned gradual progress that Riccardo Tisci led after taking office in March. The rejuvenation of marketing has always been the advantage of Burberry. Before the show, the brand has done warm-up work on social media. The first step is to announce the change of the brand logo and the release of the new Thomas Burberry print, followed by the most important September issue every year. A large-scale tiled new print advertisement was published. Subsequently, Burberry covered new prints on outdoor billboards, art installations, buses and buildings around the world, including the large Thomas Burberry print bear installation at Shanghai Taiping Lake Park. The appearance of the Burberry flagship store on Regent Street in the UK has also been renewed. Of course, there is only one purpose to create such a dazzling look and feel, and constantly strengthen the memory of consumers.
Earlier, Burberry had a look-and-see, and the brand borrowed from the street fashion brand. It launched a logo T-shirt with a new TB logo. However, the marketing significance of this initiative seems to be greater than the purpose of sales. Before Riccardo Tisci fully presented the new Burberry, young people would still hesitate to pay for a simple 4000 t-shirt. After all, what influences their consumption decisions is whether the new Burberry is cool enough to be fresh.
In response to this year's fur-free theme of London Fashion Week, Burberry also announced that Riccardo Tisci will no longer burn inventories and no longer use fur. This move not only eliminates the negative impact of the earlier Burberry incineration inventory, but also prevents the instability of the previous season's animal protection organization PETA demonstrations outside the show, while making the brand more in line with current consumer values.
After sweeping the obstacles and making a foothold, Burberry's new image has already begun to take shape. From this point of view, the contemporary brand logic of the first brand and the post-product is in the new Burberry. However, Riccardo Tisci's safety card seems to have insufficient stamina, which has weakened the brand's earlier pace.
In the cumbersome message conveyed Soufeel Coupons by the September 2018 series, there is still some confusion about where Burberry will go. The so-called "mix of British lifestyles" has returned to the fascinating sophistication of fashion itself, but the cruel fact of the current industry is that people selectively block out the information that needs to be brainstormed and are more willing to receive clear and clear signals.
Now, Riccardo Tisci has only opened its head, and it will still be difficult in the future. The clearer brand image will continue to be Burberry's next important challenge.
After the release of the new Burberry, the group's share price rose nearly 2% today, as of the time the manuscript recorded a growth of 1% to 21.3 pounds per share, the market value of about 8.7 billion pounds.